The short answer
IW328087 is a reference number for one of IWC's modern Pilot's watches. A "fake IW328087" is a replica built to imitate that exact reference, down to the case size, dial layout, and the engraved model number on the caseback. They get sold in three broad grades: cheap quartz or Miyota pieces under a hundred dollars, mid-tier automatics with a generic Swiss movement, and a top tier that runs a real Sellita or ETA base inside a case machined to closer tolerances.
That top tier is what people mean when they say super clone. It is still not an IWC, and the gap shows up in predictable places.
Why IWC replicas trail Rolex replicas
Factories chase volume. A fake Submariner sells itself because the original is the most recognized watch on earth. An IWC Pilot's watch is a quieter buy, so the total market is smaller and fewer workshops bother. In practice that means fewer good versions of IW328087, and the bad versions are worse than the bad Rolex versions. You also get less community documentation. For a Datejust you can find a hundred comparison photos in an afternoon. For an IWC reference you might find a handful.
Better to know that going in than to assume the usual buying rules apply.
Where the fakes fall short
- Movement. IWC's in-house calibres have a specific architecture and finish. Replicas almost always run a Sellita SW200, an ETA 2824 clone, or a Miyota 9015. All three are decent. None of them are what IWC puts in this reference, and the caseback or an open back will tell you which one you have.
- Dial printing. Look at the text weight and the spacing between the logo letters. On replicas, "Schaffhausen" tends to sit slightly too thin or too wide, and the minute track drifts a hair off the chapter ring.
- Lume. Genuine IWC lume glows evenly and fades slowly. Replica lume burns bright for ten minutes and then quits. The triangle at 12 is the easiest place to spot uneven application.
- Crystal and AR coating. IWC coats its sapphire so the dial reads almost like a bare face under indoor light. Plenty of replicas skip the coating or apply a blue-tinted layer you can see at an angle.
- Caseback engraving. Reference numbers, serials, and the case material stamp. Replica stamping is usually shallower and the font is off by a fraction. Compare against a clear photo of the real one.
Movement is the expensive part to copy
Cases and dials are machining and printing. A motivated factory can get those close. A movement needs tooling, finishing, and quality control, and that costs more than the entire rest of the watch. So the movement is where every replica compromises, and it is also the thing you can check in two minutes with a loupe and a caseback opener. If a seller will not show you the movement, that is your answer.
Verify the reference before you compare anything
- Pull the official spec for IW328087 from IWC. Case diameter, thickness, lug width, water resistance, calibre number, power reserve.
- Find three or four high-resolution photos of the genuine watch from different angles. Dealer listings are useful. Press photos are better.
- Measure the replica against those numbers. Diameter and thickness are the fastest filter. Many fakes are half a millimetre off, which shows on a caliper.
- Check how the strap or bracelet attaches. Quick-release systems are hard to copy cleanly, and the tolerances give it away.
The practical side
Two things worth saying plainly. A replica is not a genuine IWC, and selling one as genuine is fraud in most countries. Replica buyers also deal with customs seizures, no warranty, and no resale market. If you want a Pilot's watch that holds value, the used market for the real thing is worth a look. If you want the look at a fraction of the cost and you know exactly what you are buying, that is a different decision.