The fake Rolex Explorer 1655 is a counterfeit version of the vintage Explorer II, a 39mm stainless steel 24-hour watch that Rolex built from 1971 to 1985. Genuine examples trade in the five-figure range, so replicas are finished to look right on the wrist rather than to survive a caseback inspection. The three fastest tells are the movement inside, the engraved 24-hour bezel, and the dial printing.
What is the Rolex Explorer 1655?
The ref. 1655 was Rolex's first Explorer II, sold from 1971 until it was replaced by the ref. 16550 in 1985. It pairs a 39mm Oyster case with a fixed steel bezel engraved for 24 hours and an orange arrow hand that completes one lap per day. Collectors call it the Steve McQueen, even though the actor was never photographed wearing one.
Are fake Explorer 1655s common?
Far less common than replicas of current models such as the 226570. Most super clone factories chase watches that are still in production, because those sell in volume and the tooling pays off faster. Vintage 1655 replicas tend to come from older counterfeit generations, or from Franken builds that pair an aftermarket case with a genuine or refinished dial.
That gap matters. A fake 1655 is usually a poorer copy than a modern fake Explorer II, which makes it easier to catch.
How to tell a fake Rolex Explorer 1655 from a genuine one
Movement
A genuine 1655 runs the Rolex caliber 1575, a 26-jewel automatic with hacking seconds and no quickset date. Replicas use third-party movements, so the rotor, bridges, and stamping look nothing like Rolex finishing. Pull the crown and check the second position: on a real 1655 the 24-hour hand cannot be set on its own, because it is geared to the movement and always tracks the hour hand.
Bezel and crystal
The genuine bezel is stainless steel with deep engraved numerals filled with black paint, and the engraving has crisp inner edges. Replicas typically show shallow laser etching, soft corners, and paint that sits above the surface. The crystal should be domed acrylic, not flat acrylic and not sapphire.
Dial and hands
Rolex made at least five documented dial variants across the 1655 run, and each has specific font weight, coronet shape, and lume plot placement. Counterfeit dials usually fail on the serif shapes in the "Explorer II" text, the spacing of the depth rating line, and the orange of the 24-hour hand. Under a loupe, fake lume plots look uniformly round while genuine plots vary with age and service history.
Case, lugs, and numbers
Genuine cases measure 39mm across with pronounced crown guards and thick, drilled lugs. The reference number 1655 sits between the lugs at 12 o'clock and the serial between the lugs at 6 o'clock, with serials falling roughly in the 2.7 million to 8.5 million ranges. Replicas often use wrong lug widths, so a genuine 20mm bracelet fits loosely or not at all.
What movements do Explorer 1655 replicas use?
- ETA 2836-2 or Asian 2836 with a bolt-on GMT module
- Miyota 8215 or 9015 with a modified 24-hour gear train
- Chinese DG3804B, a low-cost GMT clone
- Vintage-style hand-wind or quartz movements in budget copies
Any of these can show the right time, but none match the beat rate, winding feel, or date-change behavior of a 1575.
What does a fake Explorer 1655 cost?
- Budget copies: about $80 to $250
- Mid-tier replicas with a 2836 GMT: about $250 to $600
- Franken builds with a genuine dial or movement: $1,500 and up
- Genuine ref. 1655: five figures, with complete sets at the top of the range
Risks of buying a replica or Franken 1655
Selling counterfeit Rolex watches violates trademark law in the United States, and shipping them across borders can trigger seizure. Franken watches carry their own problem: mixed parts are hard to resell, and many service centers refuse the work outright. If your goal is ownership of a real 1655, buy only from a dealer who offers an authenticity guarantee and accepts a return.
Frequently asked questions
Is the 1655 really the Steve McQueen Rolex?
The nickname comes from collectors, not from the actor's wrist. McQueen wore other watches on screen, and no credible photo ties him to a ref. 1655.
Did Rolex make the 1655 in gold or two-tone?
No. The ref. 1655 was stainless steel only for its entire production run.
Does the ref. 1655 have a quickset date?
No. The caliber 1575 requires you to advance the date by cycling the hands past midnight.