Quick answer

Replica Cartier yellow gold watches are copies of Cartier models with a gold-colored case and bracelet. Almost none contain solid 18k gold. Most use brass or 316L steel under a gold plating 2 to 5 microns deep. Solid 18k gold Cartier watches retail from $7,000 to $30,000 and above. Replica listings run $60 to $400.

Cartier is owned by Richemont. Cartier holds US trademark registrations for the Santos, Tank, Ballon Bleu, and Panthère names and case shapes. Import of a watch that carries those marks and no license is prohibited in the United States.

Case materials and plating

  • Brass case, gold plated. The common build. Plating depth 2 to 5 microns. Wear shows at the crown, lugs, and clasp within 6 to 18 months.
  • 316L steel case, gold plated. Heavier. Holds plating longer. Base cost about $40 more.
  • PVD coating. 1 to 3 microns of gold-tone titanium nitride. Harder than electroplating, thinner color layer.
  • Gold-filled sheet or 14k sheet. Rare. Price above $600.
  • Solid 18k gold. Found in a small number of listings. Price above $1,000. Many of those builds sit on a used genuine case.

A Santos de Cartier large model in solid gold weighs about 150 g. A plated copy of the same size weighs 90 g to 110 g.

Movements used

  • Chinese 2813 automatic. $8 to $15 wholesale. 21,600 vph.
  • Miyota 9015. Japan. $60 to $90. 28,800 vph.
  • ETA 2824-2 or a clone (PT5000, Seagull ST2130). $100 to $200.
  • Ronda 763 or ETA 955 quartz for Tank and Panthère copies. $5 to $20.

Models copied most

Santos de Cartier, Tank Must, Tank Française, Ballon Bleu de Cartier, Panthère de Cartier, and Ronde Must. Yellow gold finishes appear on the Santos, Tank Française, Ballon Bleu, and Panthère. The genuine Tank and Panthère run on quartz, so a quartz copy matches the real spec.

How to check a yellow gold finish

  1. Look for the hallmark. Solid 18k French gold carries a "750" stamp or the eagle head mark. Plated cases carry no hallmark, or a stamped "18k" with no maker punch.
  2. Weigh the watch. A plated 40 mm case sits below 110 g. Solid gold sits near 150 g.
  3. Use a magnet. 18k gold and brass do not pull. A steel case pulls at the lugs.
  4. Measure density. 18k gold runs 15.5 g/cm3. Brass runs 8.5 g/cm3. A water displacement test separates the two.
  5. Check the crystal. Sapphire returns a sharp reflection. Mineral glass shows scratches at 6 months.

Legal status in the US

18 U.S.C. § 2320 covers trafficking in counterfeit goods. A first offense carries up to 10 years in prison and a $2,000,000 fine for an individual, $5,000,000 for a company. US Customs and Border Protection seizes and destroys counterfeit watches at the border. Sale of a counterfeit Cartier in the US is a federal crime. Personal possession is not a federal crime. Import is. Buying from an overseas seller carries seizure risk and no refund. A seller who markets a copy as a genuine watch commits fraud.