A replica Jules Audemars Selfwinding costs $250 to $900
The price sets the build. Below $350 you get a 316L steel case, a Miyota 9015 and a decor plate on the rotor. Above $600 you get a 39 mm case, a cloned calibre 3120 layout and a gold cap on the rotor. No tier matches the genuine watch. The gap shows at the caseback, the date font and the case thickness.
audemars piguet jules audemars self-winding reproduction
Genuine specs to compare against
The Jules Audemars Selfwinding uses the calibre 3120. AP lists 60 hours of power reserve, 21,600 vibrations per hour, 40 jewels and a 22k gold rotor. The case on the common reference measures 39 mm across. Case metal is 18k rose, white or yellow gold. Sapphire front and back. Alligator strap.
audemars piguet jules audemars self-winding reproduction
AP retired the Jules Audemars line. The Code 11.59 took its place in the catalog in 2019.
Jules Audemars Self-Winding Reproduction: A Buyer's Guide
Case and thickness
Ask for a caliper photo. A genuine 39 mm selfwinding case sits near 9 mm thick. Replicas land at 10.5 mm to 11.5 mm because the clone movement is taller. A 2 mm gap changes the profile on the wrist and the fit between case and strap.
How to Spot a Fake Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars Self-Winding
Check lug width. A 20 mm strap fits the 39 mm case. Some replicas ship 19 mm lugs and a strap that tapers to 16 mm.
Movement check
Ask the seller for a timegrapher printout, or run a phone app on arrival. A Miyota 9015 runs at 28,800 vph. The calibre 3120 runs at 21,600 vph. A clone that reads 28,800 is a Miyota with a fake bridge, not a 3120 copy.
Look at the rotor edge. A genuine 3120 rotor is solid 22k gold with a stamped crest. A plated brass rotor shows a seam at the rim and a pale color under the plating.
Dial, hands and date
Genuine dials use applied gold markers with a polished bevel. Replicas use glued markers with flat tops. The date window on the 39 mm selfwinding sits at 3 o'clock. The genuine date font is a thin serif. Replica date wheels show a bold sans font and a cutout that sits off center.
Hands: genuine dauphine hands have a black polish line down the center. Replica hands show a brushed top and a wide bevel.
Gold, plating and weight
Genuine cases are solid 18k gold. Replicas use 316L steel with PVD or a 3 to 5 micron gold wrap. PVD color reads orange under daylight. A wrapped case shows wear at the lugs after 12 to 18 months. Ask for a scale photo of the head. A solid gold case weighs more than the steel copy at the same size.
Strap and clasp
Genuine straps are alligator with a gold pin buckle or a folding clasp. Replica straps are embossed calf with a steel buckle. Check the stitch pitch and the strap thickness at the lugs.
Buying checklist
- Caliper photo of case thickness.
- Timegrapher printout with rate, amplitude and beat error.
- Macro photo of the caseback engraving and the rotor edge.
- Photo of the date wheel at 3 o'clock.
- Strap width at the lugs and at the buckle.
- Return window of 7 days or more.
What no replica fixes
Movement finishing is the hard part. The calibre 3120 has hand-bevelled bridges, circular graining and black polished steel parts. Clone bridges are CNC stamped and plated. Under a loupe the bevels are round, not sharp. Caseback engravings on replicas are laser cut, not stamped, so the depth is shallow.