Replica IW322046: the short answer
There is no single "replica IW322046." The reference describes one IWC model, but the fakes sold under that number come from several factories, and they are not close to each other in quality. What separates them is the case, the dial printing, the movement, and how the bracelet or strap meets the case. If a listing only promises "1:1 Swiss super clone" and shows two soft photos, you cannot tell which tier you are buying. Ask for the factory name and the movement model before anything else. That answer tells you more than any slogan.
Why the reference number matters more than the photos
IWC's reference system is not random. The first digits point to a model family and the last digits to a variant, so IW322046 describes a specific mix of case size, dial layout, date position, and movement. That matters here, because a replica either matches that mix or it does not. Sellers often reuse one case across several references and hope nobody checks. Before you pay, pull up the real spec: case diameter, lug width, dial color, whether there is a date, and where the date sits. Then compare it to the listing line by line. If the seller cannot give you the case diameter to the millimeter, walk away.
The four things that decide quality
- Case finishing. Watch the transition between brushed and polished surfaces. On a good rep the brushed grain runs one direction and stops at a crisp line. On a cheap one the polish bleeds into the brushed area and the edges feel rounded.
- Dial printing. Logo, text, and markers should stay sharp under magnification. Thick or smudged print is the easiest tell, and re-luming is a common shortcut that shows up as uneven glow.
- Movement. This is where most of the money goes. See the next section.
- Bracelet and clasp. Check the end links for gaps against the lugs, the clasp engraving, and how the links articulate. A great case on a rattly bracelet reads as a fake from arm's length.
What is actually inside
"Swiss made" on a replica usually means a Swiss-designed ebauche, not a Swiss-built caliber. Most mid and top tier reps run Asian clones: a 2824-family automatic for three-hand models, or a 7750-based chronograph for anything with pushers. A smaller number use genuine ETA or Sellita, and those cost more. Ask which one it is, and ask for a photo of the movement with the caseback off. A decorated rotor with an engraved logo is easy to fake. Clean finishing on the bridges and a properly seated balance wheel are harder to fake.
Water resistance
Assume nothing. Even when a seller pressure tests a watch, the gaskets are the weak point, and a copy case is not cut to the same tolerances as the original. I treat every replica as splash resistant until someone shows me a test result with a number on it. If you plan to swim, have a local watchmaker reseal and test it first. That costs less than a flooded movement.
Price as a rough proxy
Price brackets do track tiers, though not perfectly. The cheapest examples cut corners on the dial and use a low-grade rotor. Mid range buys better case work and a more reliable clone movement. The top end buys a closer case profile, sapphire with proper anti-reflective coating, and sometimes a genuine Swiss movement. None of these are the real thing, and none will survive the same service life. Go in knowing that.
Red flags in a listing
- No factory name, only phrases like "best version."
- Stock photos lifted from the brand's own site.
- No movement photo, or a photo that is clearly the same file used across several listings.
- A price far below the tier the seller claims.
- No stated return window.
Questions to send before you pay
- Which factory made this, and which version is it?
- What movement is inside, and is it decorated or engraved?
- What is the case diameter and lug width?
- Can you send photos of the actual watch, not catalog images?
- What happens if it arrives with a fault?
Get written answers. A seller who handles those five questions without dodging is worth more than a seller with prettier photos.